Frogspawn corals are among the hardier large-polyp stony (LPS) corals available to reef aquarists. They are popular because they provide and movement to reef aquariums.
Although frogspawn shares many care requirements with hammer and torch corals, there are important differences, particularly in water flow. This guide is based on firsthand coral husbandry experience at Lucky Corals and the authors reefkeeping experience dating back to 1995.
Frogspawn Coral Quick Care Guide
Lighting
50–150 PAR Up to 200 with acclimationWater Flow
Very Gentle Less than hammers or torchesTemperature
76–78°F Maintain stabilitySalinity
1.025–1.026 Specific gravityAlkalinity
7–9 dKH 8.0 preferred; stability is keyCalcium / Magnesium
Ca 400–450 ppm Mg 1250–1350 ppmPlacement
Lower–Middle Sheltered from direct flowCare Difficulty
Easy–Moderate Hardy for an LPS coralFrogspawn Coral Lighting and PAR
Frogspawn corals thrive under low to moderate lighting, generally between 50 and 150 PAR. They can also adapt to lighting levels approaching 200 PAR when acclimated gradually.
High lighting intensity is not necessary for optimal frogspawn growth and coloration. When introducing a new frag, consider the lighting conditions it was previously kept under and avoid sudden increases in intensity.
Frogspawn can adapt to a fairly broad lighting range, consistency is more important than the number within the acceptable range.
Frogspawn Coral Water Flow: Less Is Better
Water flow is one of the most important factors in keeping frogspawn corals fully expanded and healthy.
Frogspawn corals prefer significantly less flow than torch corals and somewhat less than hammer corals.
Even moderately excessive water flow can reduce a frogspawn coral's inflated size by approximately 50%.
Frogspawn tentacles should inflate fully and move gently in the current. Strong or direct flow can cause the coral to remain partially contracted even when nearby corals appear happy.
Correct vs. Excessive Water Flow
These two photographs illustrate the difference in frogspawn expansion under appropriate and excessive water flow. Click either photograph to enlarge it.
If your frogspawn coral is consistently smaller than expected, consider reducing water movement before assuming the problem is related to lighting or water chemistry.
The ideal location provides gentle, indirect movement without continuously pushing the tentacles in one direction.
Frogspawn Coral Water Parameters
Frogspawn corals thrive in stable reef aquarium conditions. Maintaining consistent water chemistry is especially important for healthy tissue expansion, skeletal growth, and coloration.
| Parameter | Recommended Value |
|---|---|
| Temperature | 76–78°F |
| Salinity | 1.025–1.026 SG |
| Alkalinity | 7–9 dKH (8.0 preferred) |
| Calcium | 400–450 ppm |
| Magnesium | 1250–1350 ppm |
At Lucky Corals, we prefer to maintain alkalinity around 8.0 dKH, although stable values between 7 and 9 dKH are reasonable. Frogspawn corals are generally more sensitive to sudden alkalinity fluctuations than to small differences within this range.
Significant fluctuations in alkalinity and calcium can cause reduced polyp expansion, diminished coloration, and shortening of the tissue band extending down the skeleton.
A progressively shortening tissue band is an important early sign of stress, even before more dramatic tissue loss becomes apparent.
Avoid frequently trying new water parameters, prioritize stable conditions and make corrections gradually.
Frogspawn Coral Placement and Compatibility
Frogspawn generally does best in the lower to middle portions of the aquarium, although the actual location should be determined by lighting intensity and water flow particular to your reef tank.
Choose an area with gentle movement and enough space for the coral to inflate fully without rubbing against sharp rockwork or neighboring corals.
Can Frogspawn Touch Hammer or Octospawn Corals?
Branching frogspawn can generally be kept in contact with hammer and octospawn corals. These corals are usually compatible when their expanded tissue touches.
Torch corals are different. Although some torch corals may tolerate occasional contact with frogspawn, this compatibility is not reliable enough to recommend placing them together intentionally.
As established colonies grow, brief contact may occur without immediate damage. However, the corals should be separated before prolonged contact leads to injury.
Monitor neighboring colonies for contraction, tissue irritation, or damage, and give unrelated corals sufficient clearance.
Wall Frogspawn vs. Branching Frogspawn
Frogspawn corals occur in two primary skeletal growth forms: branching frogspawn (Fimbriaphyllia paradivisa, formerly Euphyllia paradivisa) and wall frogspawn (Fimbriaphyllia divisa, formerly Euphyllia divisa).
Branching frogspawn develops individual skeletal heads that divide as the colony grows. This growth form is generally easier to maintain and is the type we prefer at Lucky Corals.
Australian wall frogspawn grows along a continuous skeletal structure rather than developing separate branches.
In our experience, wall frogspawn is significantly more aggressive toward neighboring corals and presents greater husbandry challenges than branching frogspawn.
Why Lucky Corals recommends branching frogspawn: Branching frogspawn is easier to keep, easier to manage as a colony grows, and presents fewer disadvantages than Australian wall frogspawn.
For these reasons, Lucky Corals no longer offers Australian wall frogspawn for sale.
For most reefkeepers looking to add frogspawn to an aquarium, we recommend the branching variety. The compatibility guidance above is intended primarily for branching frogspawn.
Do Frogspawn Corals Need Feeding?
Frogspawn corals do not require direct feeding.
Like many photosynthetic LPS corals, frogspawn receives much of its nutritional energy from symbiotic algae living within its tissue.
Some specimens will capture and swallow food offered directly to their tentacles. However, routine target feeding is not necessary, and the benefits usually do not justify the additional nutrients introduced into the aquarium.
For most established reef aquariums with fish present, appropriate lighting and stable water quality are sufficient without supplemental target feeding.
Frogspawn Coral Growth and Skeletal Structure
Branching frogspawn corals form individual skeletal heads that grow and eventually divide.
Normal branching frogspawn heads generally reach approximately 2 inches in skeletal diameter before splitting.
As the colony matures, additional heads develop, creating a larger branching structure.
Frogspawn and octospawn have identical care requirements but can be distinguished by the appearance of their tentacles.
See our Frogspawn vs. Octospawn Identification Guide for a detailed photographic comparison of their tentacle structure, growth forms, and scientific classification.
Frogspawn Coral Varieties
Frogspawn corals occur in a wide range of colors and patterns. Despite their different appearances, branching varieties share the same basic husbandry requirements described in this guide.
These photographs show frogspawn varieties photographed at Lucky Corals. Click any image to enlarge it.
Common Frogspawn Coral Problems
Frogspawn corals are hardy for an LPS coral, but poor extension, tissue recession, pests, and disease can still cause problems.
Frogspawn Coral Not Fully Opening
Reduced polyp extension is one of the most common signs of stress.
Start by evaluating water flow. Frogspawn is particularly sensitive to excessive current, and a coral can remain substantially deflated even when the flow appears relatively modest.
If water movement is appropriate, check for recent changes in alkalinity, calcium, salinity, and lighting.
Persistent contraction can also result from irritation, neighboring corals, pests, or developing tissue damage.
Loss of Color and Tissue Recession
Significant changes in alkalinity or calcium usually affect frogspawn coloration, expansion, and tissue health.
One important warning sign is shortening of the living tissue band extending down the skeletal stem.
Monitor the coral for continued tissue recession and investigate the underlying source of stress rather than relying solely on its daytime appearance.
Euphyllia-Eating Flatworms on Frogspawn Corals
Euphyllia-eating flatworms (EEFW) are polyclad flatworms that can infest frogspawns, hammers, and torches.
These pests often hide near the tissue–skeleton boundary, making them difficult to detect when the coral is fully extended.
Infested corals may display reduced polyp extension, persistent irritation, and tissue damage.
How to Identify EEFW
- Flat, well-camouflaged polyclad worms hiding near the base of the tissue.
- Reduced or uneven polyp extension.
- Persistent irritation and tissue damage.
-
Brown-to-gold eggs approximately 1 mm in diameter (about the size of a poppy seed).
-
Eggs are laid in clusters ranging from a few to dozens, attached to the coral's skeleton near the living tissue.
Three Common Myths About EEFW
Myth 1: Flatworm Exit eliminates EEFW. Products intended for common aquarium flatworms are not reliably effective against these larger polyclad flatworms.
Myth 2: Wrasses will eliminate EEFW. Wrasses may occasionally consume exposed flatworms, but they are not reliable infestation control. EEFW frequently remain protected by coral tissue and are primarily active at night.
Myth 3: Coral dips kill EEFW eggs. Dips may help dislodge adult flatworms, but eggs can survive treatment and hatch later.
Managing EEFW: Carefully inspect affected corals, remove accessible egg clusters without damaging living tissue, and repeat inspections over time.
Quarantine affected specimens when practical. A single coral dip should not be considered a complete solution.
Brown Jelly Disease in Frogspawn Corals
Brown jelly disease is a rapidly progressing condition that can affect frogspawn and other fleshy LPS corals.
In our experience, frogspawn is less susceptible than torch coral, although infections can still occur.
Affected corals may develop brown, gelatinous material over damaged or dying tissue, sometimes accompanied by rapid tissue loss.
Act quickly when brown jelly is suspected.
Isolate the affected coral when practical, and carefully siphon away loose, deteriorating material without dispersing it throughout the aquarium.
Where necessary, severely affected heads may need to be removed to protect the remaining colony.
Because rapidly deteriorating tissue can have multiple causes, evaluate water quality, physical damage, neighboring corals, and other possible sources of stress.
Antibiotic treatments are sometimes used for severe infections, but their effectiveness depends on the underlying cause and they should not be considered universally effective cures. Follow applicable veterinary guidance and monitor aquarium water quality during treatment.
Frogspawn Coral Care FAQs
How much PAR does frogspawn coral need?
Frogspawn generally thrives between 50 and 150 PAR. It can acclimate to approximately 200 PAR when lighting is increased gradually.
Does frogspawn coral need high flow?
No. Frogspawn prefers very gentle water movement, even less than hammer or torch corals. Excessive flow can reduce polyp inflation substantially.
What alkalinity is best for frogspawn?
Lucky Corals prefers approximately 8.0 dKH, but stable alkalinity between 7 and 9 dKH is reasonable. Avoid sudden fluctuations.
Can frogspawn touch hammer coral?
Branching frogspawn and hammer corals can generally touch without aggressive interactions, although neighboring colonies should still be monitored for irritation.
Can frogspawn touch octospawn?
Yes. Branching frogspawn and octospawn are generally compatible and can often be kept in contact.
Can frogspawn touch torch coral?
Occasional contact may be tolerated, but intentionally placing them in contact is not recommended.
Should I feed frogspawn coral?
Direct feeding is not necessary. Although frogspawn may swallow offered food, routine target feeding generally provides little benefit relative to the additional nutrients introduced into the aquarium.
Is frogspawn coral difficult to keep?
Frogspawn is relatively hardy for an LPS coral. Stable water chemistry, very gentle flow, and avoiding aggressive neighboring corals are the most important considerations.
What is the difference between wall and branching frogspawn?
Branching frogspawn develops separate skeletal heads, while wall frogspawn grows along a continuous skeleton. Lucky Corals recommends branching frogspawn because it is easier to maintain and less aggressive toward neighboring corals.
Explore Frogspawn Corals at Lucky Corals
Frogspawn corals are available in a variety of colors and patterns, from traditional green and purple-tip varieties to colorful multicolored strains.
Browse our selection of branching frogspawn and octospawn corals to find a specimen for your reef aquarium.
Shop Frogspawn & Octospawn CoralsLearn more in our Frogspawn vs. Octospawn Identification Guide or explore our Coral Identification & Care Guide Library .